<span class="highlight">Cape</span> <span class="highlight">York</span> without the crowds?

Planning a trip up to Cape York this August.

I understand that Cape York is a major tourist spot & attracts lots of people all the time, but is it possible to get up there using roads, tracks and campgrounds that aren't flooded with other people?

I'm specifically wondering if there are alternate routes from Cairns northwards?

I guess what I'm trying to avoid is being kept awake at night by someones music, then being woken up early by someone else and overdosing on discarded toilet paper.

Never been up there, but I have a vision in my head that it'll be like Luna Park but with more toilet paper.

Is it that bad???
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Reply By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 09:48

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 09:48
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It is certainly busy up there, particularly between June and September.

There is only one road... the Peninsular Development Road. The Old Telegraph Track is a detour with creek crossings.

At the top, a good caravan park such as Loyalty Beach Campground have good practices of customer behaviour.
Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: Siringo - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 10:19

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 10:19
Thanks for the advice Alan, much appreciated.

I took a look at the loyalty beach web site, I think I'll put that on our list of places to stay. They say they have 11 acres of bush camping. Should be able to find a spot in there somewhere.
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 10:37

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 10:37
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We were fortunate to have a camp spot right on the beachfront.........


And Loyalty Beach has a great little restaurant for drinks and an indulgent meal.
Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: Siringo - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 10:52

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 10:52
That looks fabulous Allan, thanks again.
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Follow Up By: Member - Bigfish - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:02

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:02
Just be careful at Loyalty Beach as heaps of wild horses roam and gallop through the areas. Had them actually knock down guy ropes and get into the campers annex area. I wasn,t the only one. I would not recommend this place in school holidays...worse than a Saturday morning in Melbourne's Bourke Street. Drive sensibly (you,ll be one of the few who do) and it is only a dirt road that can be corrugated or nice and smooth, depending on the road crews and graders. The later you leave it the less the crowds. October would probably be too uncomfortable for you as the build up begins. Mid September is bearable and more crowd friendly. Enjoy.
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:29

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:29
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Bigfish, I did not know about wild horses. Do you have a recommendation better than Loyalty Beach?
I would not go to the Cape during school holidays. My visit was in May and several years ago. It is reportedly much busier up there now.
Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: Member - Bigfish - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:36

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:36
I didnt bother going to Punsand Bay but believe its not bad. To be perfectly honest I didnt find the cape especially attractive. I,ve been to many better scenic and adventurous regions. Unfortunately with the huge demand for caravans and campers combined with a lot more holidaying at home , popular destinations are going to be overcrowded and less pleasant. I prefer to go more remote now or even stay on cattle stations that have a river/swamp/creeks.
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:45

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:45
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I took a look at Punsand Bay as I went past but was not attracted. It looked too cramped and structured for me.
But I have no actual experience of it. Maybe some who stayed there might comment.
Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: Siringo - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:45

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:45
Thanks everyone.

@Bigfish, August is in the middle of Term 3 for all the eastern states, should it be OK at that time?

We've camped with wild horses once near Cameron Corner. Sitting around the fire in the dark, we hear a rumble, it gets closer & closer. Couldn't see a thing, could only hear them. Quite unsettling.
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Follow Up By: Member - Bigfish - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:49

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:49
As I said mate school holidays are as crowded as . Mid term would be quieter for sure. Late August even quieter. . Travel there with an open mind and dont expect it to be a world shattering experience. It is best travelled with plenty of time and not rushing around or having to commit to a certain place at a certain time. Relaxed mode is the answer. You will enjoy it.
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Follow Up By: Stephen L (Clare) SA - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 19:12

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 19:12
Another vote for Loyalty Beach.

Great spot to base yourself with lots of room. We were there for a week and no problems at all.

Others may advise Punsand Bay........if you like being jammed in like sardines
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Follow Up By: Member - nickb "boab" - Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 06:56

Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 06:56
We stayed at punsand in july August 2016 ? Its a very nice spot , our camp was at the far end beach front .Not crammed in by any means imo 4?,few shady trees .Beautiful beach & views nice bar area for evening drinks etc . It was fully booked out & they were turning a lot of people away .
My view
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 07:46

Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 07:46
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Good to hear that Nick. I did only view without entering so maybe got the wrong opinion.
I have heard others praise Punsand too.
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Allan

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Follow Up By: Member - McLaren3030 - Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 08:11

Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 08:11
We stayed at Punsand Bay a couple of years ago. It was very crowded, although the spot we were given at the far end of the camp ground had plenty of room, and we were not right next to anyone else. Our spot was set back from the beach, but was very shady.

If going again, I would stay at Loyalty Beach instead. Less crowded, with similar facilities. We were there in late Sept.





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Reply By: Peter_n_Margaret - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 10:36

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 10:36
There is a lot more to the Cape than the road up and the tip.
There are dozens of wonderous placed to explore off on side roads all the way. Many are not well visited.
Cheers,
Peter
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Follow Up By: Siringo - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 10:55

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 10:55
Yep, it's those not well visited places I'm looking for.

I admit I'm a bit over loaded with info on what to look at, and most of it are places that everyone visits because they are places listed in all the guide books.

If anyone would like to list some out of the way, less visited places, I'd be very keen to find out about them.
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Sunshine Coast) - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:21

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:21
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Just be aware that some of those wondrous places can be of difficult access requiring appropriate vehicle and skills. Which is why they are "not well visited".
Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: Member - McLaren3030 - Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 08:16

Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 08:16
Very true, we went out to Somerset which was on a nice gravel road, then took the 5 beaches track. This track needed a high ground clearance 4X4. Very scenic and a great drive. Very nice beaches to camp at, although very windy as it’s on the East Coast.

Also took a track between Punsand Bay and Loyalty Beach. This was also a good drive, but should only be taken with a 4X4.

Plenary of other places to see as well.

Macca.
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Follow Up By: Peter_n_Margaret - Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 10:01

Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 10:01
A couple we had on our own to get the juices running.

Cheers,
Peter
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Follow Up By: Member - Siringo - Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 11:06

Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 11:06
That all looks perfect Peter, that's exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks for posting the photos.
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Reply By: Member - Jim S1 - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:16

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 12:16
Siringo, it’s a bit sad, but the only way these “nice” places will stay “nice” , is not to tell everybody, especially on the net.
Some people with ideas could maybe PM you.

Cheers
Jim
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Follow Up By: Member - Cuppa - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 21:32

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2021 at 21:32
I very much understand the question posed & share Siringo's concerns. I also share Jim S1's sentiments.
We too will be experiencing the Cape this year, and as far as possible avoiding the crowds....... and still don't really have an idea as to how easy this will be.

Our 'plan' if you can call it that is to spend at least the full dry season, & very possibly over the next wet season too up here.

Our hope is to make what connections we can with people culture & country - a very different outlook to many guided by the glossy & often macho 4wd magazines etc.

The fallback position is that if we can't manage to see the Cape as we would like to, we may leave it earlier than planned & go elsewhere. To do that would be disappointing, but less disappointing than feeling we were at the unpaved end of the Gold Coast.

Currently we have been caretaking at Portland Roads since mid February & expect to be here at least until the end of April, possibly mid May. Experiencing the area, Chilli Beach in particular without anyone around, & without the wind which comes later in the year is fantastic. It's so hard to imagine the place with wall to wall tourists rushing to get the Cape 'done'.

We are also endeavouring to build what contacts we can with folk who live on the Cape withplaces we can stay when we drive back up later in the year, tourist free private properties. Places that 99.9 % of tourists would never know existed. Currently we have a station with beautiful camping by waterholes we can visit for as long as we like , mid Cape (have already camped there for a couple of weeks last year) a possibility of a 'base' (flexible house sit) up near Seisia, & a couple of other places. Just today we got to speak to someone again who we met briefly once a few weeks ago & were later told, by others, of the idyllic nature of he & his family's home & property on the mouth of the Pascoe River. Remote by Cape standards, accessed mostly by air or by boat via the coast, but also accessible by by what sounds like a fairly tough 4wd track off the PDR. Lovely bloke. We asked about visiting to camp for a bit - (Them that don't ask dont get!) I'm expecting a map to be emailed to me soon, apparently essential as "there are around a 100kms of tracks in & around our property & very easy to get lost". Even if we only get to spend a few days in places like this I hope the experience will be at least enough to to provide the wilderness experience we want balanced in contrast to the crowded holiday park version of the Cape that many get. And it does look like the Cape will be extra busy this year.

So the plan is 'time' plus 'keeping our fingers crossed'. :)
See 'My Profile' (below) for link to our Aussie travel blog, now in it's 6th year.

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Follow Up By: Member - Siringo - Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 11:09

Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 11:09
I took your prompt (unintended or otherwise Jim) and splashed out and am now a paid up member.

It'll be nice to contact others back channel instead of in public view.
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Reply By: Member - nickb "boab" - Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 07:23

Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 07:23
It is estimated that 50 to 70000 people visit the cape each year. heading north from Cairns through the Daintree Cooktown Lakefield National Park is a really nice trip through that area and some fantastic places to see & do . Not overly busy unlike the mad house development rd " crazy buzy " & a lot more interesting than the rest of the trip to Jardine River IMO .
A must is the croc tent up near punsand where we stayed but I guess it's a lot more busy than when we were there in 2016 .
Cheers Nick b

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Follow Up By: Member - Bigfish - Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 08:45

Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 08:45
This year will be a bonanza. Caravan dealers cant keep up with supply. 4wd vehicles (as are most vehicles) are 20-40% overpriced due to covid holdup. People cannot holiday overseas. Vast majority of caravan parks on East Coast already booked out for months. ...The cape will cop a flogging this year for sure.
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Reply By: Kenell - Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 08:10

Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 08:10
We stayed at Punsand when we visited in 2015 and couldn't fault it. Our travelling companions had some minor vehicle issues that needed attending to and the owners went out of their way to not only extend our stay but assist with accessing repairs. It was busy but everyone was considerate and no problems with noise or poor behaviour. We travelled around a bit and found a few spots that I would return to where you can camp free as long as you are completely self sufficient. I couldn't believe the camp grounds were all full but these idyllic spots were empty. I guess others were like us and didn't realise the options that were available. I am loathe to list the spots on here in case things have changed but perhaps you might seek a conventional camp ground for a few nights while you do some reconnaissance and see for yourself.
Safe travels and enjoy your trip.
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Reply By: axle - Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 10:18

Thursday, Mar 25, 2021 at 10:18
G/Day Siringo

I think it would be bad with notoilet paper!. lol.


Cheers.
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Follow Up By: Member - Siringo - Friday, Mar 26, 2021 at 11:57

Friday, Mar 26, 2021 at 11:57
Got onto Youtube last night and found a few out of the way spots, which looked great.

Had on my list, Ussher Point, then removed it after what I read in a Hema guide. Then watched a vid on it last night and re-added it. Looked perfect.

Also found out last night I may be able to add an additional 2 weeks to the trip which is very exciting.
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Reply By: Phil M11 - Friday, Mar 26, 2021 at 20:11

Friday, Mar 26, 2021 at 20:11
Didn't see anyone at Sadd Point & Escape river.
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Reply By: Rob M5 - Sunday, Mar 28, 2021 at 10:03

Sunday, Mar 28, 2021 at 10:03
We stayed at Umagico at Alau campground a really nice camp site hard to find but right on the beach the caretakers are nice and friendly.
While there go to the coffee shop in Umagico you will not be disappointed.
We were up there end of July last year so it was great no people to contend with just after lock down I think we could not have picked a better time to go.
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Follow Up By: Member - Siringo - Monday, Mar 29, 2021 at 09:30

Monday, Mar 29, 2021 at 09:30
That sounds great Rob, I'll add it to the list, thank for posting.
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Reply By: Lurchwa - Thursday, May 06, 2021 at 22:19

Thursday, May 06, 2021 at 22:19
We are planning to be there in mid to late June 21 and hoping to avoid most of the school holiday crowd on the trip up. We will be there after that and are keeping an open mind as it doesnt matter where you are these days it is very busy.
We enquired at Punsand Bay and told booked out so wrote to Loyalty who replied that they would find us a spot easily so we are staying there and day tripping from there.
We are hardcore 4wd and are more interested in having a look around and maybe a fishing charter though we do like the idea of doing an overnighter to Thursday & Horn Island so will see what happens.
Cant wait to be honest and the late wet this will see a lot of people cooling their heels so might be a silver lining in it all
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